The Squatting Sumo is a techie little pupa pattern. It was designed initially for pressured tailwaters but we have since found out that it fishes like a champ on freestones,spring creeks and everything in between. The UV cured body is transparent and shaped to mimic the actual size of caddis bodies in the pupa stage (bulbous)  The added sparkle of ice dub coupled with partridge legs and ostrich herl for movement can bring most selective eaters in for a good hard look. In most cases that cold hard look leads to sore lips and high fives.

This is a pattern created to imitate the pupal stage of various sedges found in Utah. Lower light periods seem to be when the sumo produces. This bug fishes really well during emergence on the swing, pimped out under an indicator, or off a chewy dry during the summer months (Hint: I think they take this for a snail on still waters)




Hook: Tmc 2488 or similar.  Sz. 14-16
Thread:  Brown 6/0
Body:  2  sz. Small amber  glass bead strung on 3x. 3x burned on end to avoid slippage. Dipped and cured in Clear Cure Goo (Thick) or Bug Bond original (leaving about 1” of excess tippet to assist in tying on to hook)
Bead:   3/32-7/64 copper tung bead.
Tail/Antenna Tail fibers: brown ep fibers. Antenna-Mallard flank dyed wood duck: curled to simulate horns
Dubbing: pheasant tail/rusty brown ice dub mixed in two parts
Legs: partridge
Collar: brown Ostrich

Step by Step:

:22  String 3 amber glass beads on a section of 0x

:31 burn the end with your favorite lighter (you want to create a nice stub here so the beads won”t slide off your mono

:45 apply CCG to the beads so that they are completely encapsuled and ready to be cured (don’t apply too much CCG or your body will be too fat after curing)


1:40 Stop talking and cure the CCG already!
1:42 Your body should look like this

1:58 Start your thread and wrap to the bend

2:36 tie in in the body with the mono extending the length of the shank to just behind the bead.

3:02 tie in some brown ep fibers under your pre-formed body (you could do this step first before tying in the body)

4:16 create your dubbing by mixing the ingredients listed in the recipe (plain pheasant tail ice dub is also good for this step)

4:41 Place dubbing on thread and begin dubbing in front of your body (I know, I know, it’s loosely dubbed and before i pick out the dubbing it looks like a rat turd on a hook…just be patient)

5:01 Rat turd

5:30 brush out that body!!!!

6:49 Tie in your leg material “soft hackle style” or you can tie them in “beard style”…..whatever style you prefer, just tie those legs in!

7:26  tie in two brown ostrich herl fibers and wrap them forward to just behind the bead (wet them to make them more manageable)

8:09 tie in your horns (mallard flank dyed wood duck is what I like to use)

Whip Finish and you’re done

Here’s a wet version.

Created & Tied by: Grant Bench

Also, credit for the bead body was inspired by Rick Fox, an awesome tyer from Redding, CA.

About The Author

The Fly Ninja

I tie fly.

3 Responses

  1. Grant

    Thank you for your comment Arctic Wolf. If you look closely, props were given to Mike Mercer at the bottom of the SBS. My mistake, I should have given it to Rick Fox…didn’t he play for the Laker’s?

  2. Danny Frank

    This fly looks awesome, I’m gonna have to tie some up, thanks for sharing! Have you seen the hydrophysc? I think its a solitude pattern, similar concept and has been killing it for me this summer.


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